I road my bicycle out across the countryside, using my crappy map and some vague idea of dead reckoning. Leaving the Rolous complex behind, I chose a route that proved rough and fantastic. Kilometer after kilometer on wet, sandy scooter trails through rice fields and hamlets. This, in and of itself, was reward enough for the day.
In one small miracle, I stopped to buy some much needed bananas. When the women told me the price, in Cambodian, I actually understood her!! Breakthrough!! I did a little happy dance right on the spot, which amused everyone quite a bit.
I finally struck a paved road and realized I knew where I was. I was headed in the right direction for the Grand Circuit, the larger loop of 20 some kilometers that is the largest circle around the Angkor temples.
Angkor defies superlatives. I was so wrong. I have been to cathedrals, wats, temples, truly amazing places. I doubted the hyperbole that swirls around Angkor. Even as I write this, it is important to remember that I have not even set foot in any of the hugely famous temples in this complex, Like Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom or Bayon. Nothing I write will convey the immensity , the awesome diversity and beauty of these temples.
Fallen columns at Preah Khan.
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