Prezzies

The scrum of shool kids at Wat Phnom Yat

Political discussions mixed with photo ops.

The paton Buddha of NBA players

Hambone Kids at the local mosque.

The Christmas presents were piled high under my metaphorical Yule tree today, although I had to walk a ways to find them. Cambodia was generous on this, my last full day in the country. Fully replenished with a traditional holiday brekkie of fried seafood noodles, I set out for Pailin town, walking down my new favorite country backroad that takes the long way. I was sweating a bit in the warm morning sun. Five kilometers later I arrived at my destination, Wat Phnom Yat, a hilltop temple done up in psychedelic colours, gleaming on its hill like a benign acid trip.

Buses, there were buses parked all along the road at the bottom of the stairs. Had Pailin been invaded by the Chinese tour groups? What new hell is this? But no, the Phnom (hill in the Khmer language) had been overrun by school groups on field trips. And who was soon to be the unknowing star of the show? Yeah, the Lone Foreigner, that's who.

In the intensive interactions that followed, I was asked to be in group photos. Not just once, but over and over. I was very politely mobbed by kids. During our photo shoots, the kids vied with each other to hold my hands, get their arms around my neck, and generally engulf me in a sea of goodwill. It was another example of being the "Other," of being unique without having done anything to warrant that uniqueness. And it was so utterly charming and wonderful. I could not have asked for a better day or a better holiday gift.

I had the opportunity for a long talk with one of the teachers, a very pointed political discussion about how normal Cambodians view the government of strong man Hun Sen, the "Prime Minister" of this country. The views expressed by this teacher validated those written in the political histories of Cambodia that I have been reading. He spoke of corruption, cronyism, a lack of services or basic care for most of the working people of Cambodia. The ills of a broken political system categorized while the kids snapped photos of their teacher talking with the foreigner. Openly expressing these views, especially in writing, could be dangerous for this man. So it is here, the constant reminders that this place, as wonderful as it can be, has a troubled past and a troubled present.

Leaving behind the Wat and my new-found star status, I walked down the dusty backstreets of Pailin, following a sign for the local mosque. When I got there, I had my own photo op with the mosque kids who were all to happy to pose for a group photo.

In between my interactions, I filled the day with my usual activities. I stopped for coffee, found an open air stall for lunch, and was even treated to a sales pitch for some gemstones. Rubies and sapphires were spread out in front of me at a counter, glimmering in the light. Or perhaps cut glass for all I know. I do know that loose gems in Asia are best left to those that have a least an inkling of what they are looking at. Me? I'm an idiot when it comes to these shiny baubles, so I politely looked and did not buy. But it was fun.

In a few hours the sun will be rising on a new Christmas morning for most of you. My wish for all of you is a happy holiday with family and friends. My Christmas Day has been more than I could ever hope or ask for and I wish the same for all of you.

Be well, be happy, live large.

marco