Kratie

A fish netting camp on the Mekong River

Sabine and Madjid mixing with the locals at the ferry.

The dry season sand bar between the island and the river.  Crossing it in the noon sun was a bit like Lawrence of Arabia.  

I am fortunate enough that over the last few years I have been able to be on the Mekong River a number of times. Now, In Kratie, I am back on the banks of the Mighty Mekong, this time in Cambodia. The Mekong log now stands at Thailand, Lao, Vietnam and Cambodia. I suppose that I will have to continue upriver to Burma and on until I reach the Tibetan Plateau.

After wandering around the Kratie riverfront looking for my friends Madjid and Sabine, I finally found them at Red Sun Falling. Coffee again, "a proper mug" according to the menu. Then we walked down to the tiny ferry to cross the Mekong. Opposite of town there is an island, one of thousands such, in the Mekong stream. Once across, and across the kilometer wide sand bar which emerges as the dry season commences, we rented three motley Mao bikes.

Bouncing around the 9 kilometer circumference of the island on the new frontrunner for world's worst bike, I was treated to neat Khmer houses on stilts, mangrove orchards and lush vegetable gardens. No cars or trucks here, only the very occasional scooter.

We pedaled and jounced and wiggled our way down the rutted pathways, rice paddy dikes and occasional sections of paved sidewalk-type "road," all under the blazing Cambodian sun. Slowly, slowly, rolling through the shade, waiting for that next vision of the countryside.

An easy day, followed by a phenomenal Mekong sunset and then a very long, very slow dinner with fellow travelers, swapping tales of the world. So many places, so little time. Talk ranged from Central Asia (here a Stan, there a Stan) to Mongolia, prices in Europe, Alaska, France, cafes in Vienna, all from the direct experiences of the group. So many places to go!!